Once applauded for their high-end take on classic Chinese dishes, “internet famous” restaurants are now struggling to retain customers
Since the end of “zero-Covid” policies, long lines have returned with a vengeance to China’s popular restaurants. But missing from the line-up are a few chains once hailed as the future of China’s homegrown fast food industry: the Northwest-flavored Bingz, noodle joint Hefu Noodle, beef tripe shop Diao Ye Niu Nan, and pancake restaurant Huang Taiji.
A decade ago, these brands targeted the middle class by selling comfort foods in upscale setting, instead of the usual street stalls and mom-and-pop shops. They charged higher prices than normal, justifying this by setting up inside malls alongside sit-down restaurants and by creating a buzz on the internet. In his viral 2014 WeChat article “Why I Quit My Job to Sell Roujiamo,” former IT worker Meng Bing resonated with many young office workers with his entrepreneurial story of establishing Bingz. Hefu Noodle, on the other hand, stood out by creatively incorporating traditional Chinese decorations such as wooden screens and red lanterns.
Ji Jingjing is a freelancer and a former intern at The World of Chinese. She mainly writes on Chinese culture, history and society. As a movie fanatic, she’s passionate about sharing her reviews with TWOC readers.
